MILAN

MILAN GRATOSOLIO

THANKS TO THE SOUL

From September 11 to 17, 2023 Details was in Residency at the Pim Off Theater in Milan. thanks in part to the support of the Milano Viva project.

Together with Pinar Bekaroglu we spent a very intense week, which felt like a month, in the Gratosoglio neighborhood, Milan suburb.
Gratosoglio, from the Latin Gratum Soli – Grateful soil, a beautiful place to be.
Around the 1960s, this suburb lost its agricultural vocation, due to the migratory pressure of workers who came from southern Italian regions to work in northern industries, to become a residential neighborhood of public housing.
An “innovative” neighborhood characterized by green spaces, sports facilities for public use and experimental school facilities.
Later The neighborhood was affected by austerity after the energy crisis and was later considered a dormitory neighborhood, marginalized from the rest of the city and with a deteriorated social fabric: a neighborhood of more than 9,000 people and with 16 percent immigration.

THE TOWERS

A neighborhood dominated by large rectangular buildings and the famous “White Towers” – 8 towers housing 94 families each.

Almost the entire neighborhood is managed by Aler, Azienda Lombarda per l’Edilizia Popolare.
A neighborhood in which coexist for better or worse a large percentage of elderly people, the old immigrants from southern Italy, and a new generation of migrants from the various “South of the World.”
A neighborhood with great housing problems, occupied houses, boarded-up houses, homeless people trying to take refuge in any available hole, problems of drug dealing, drugs, alcoholism, out-of-control youth gangs, unserviceable services, piles of garbage everywhere.
The dazzling white of the towers contrasts with the darkness of the “secret life” that hides in occupied basements and garages.
Darkness that also pervades the neighborhood’s main square at night – Nameless Square!!!!

GRATUM SOLI

Gratosoglio: Gratum Soli – Grateful soil, beautiful place to be!!! “Something has gone wrong” is our first impact while walking around the neighborhood.

Then slowly, walking in slow steps, looking for details, changing perspectives and meeting the many associations in the area, and the many residents who privately and voluntarily make incredible small gestures for the neighborhood we began to see the hidden beauty, the enormous richness of this neighborhood and the potential that “diversity”-if supported properly-can bring to a community.

Within a week we began to “feel at home.”

Gratosoglio – Gratum Soli – Grato Soul – Thanks To the Soul!!!
With our drawings we tried to pay homage to the countless “Souls of Gratosoglio” a quartieredai thousand contrasts, where everything is possible!

PATH IN AUTONOMY

See the 13 simple rules to follow during urban exploration.

Dear explorers, dear explorers, welcome and welcome to the Details #Cuneo “La Granda Arte” itinerary.
By placing the cursor over each point you will be able to consult the rules for walking the route correctly.

Enjoy your exploration!

If you enjoyed the experience, follow us on social channels related to @details .

Don’t stop exploring, and at the end of all our going we will return to the starting point and know that place for the first time.
Four Quartets – T. S. Eliot.

DEPARTURE

Start the route from No. 1 and continue to the end.

RESPECT

Respect the community you are exploring, whether it is public or private property.

INTERPRET

Before framing the Qr Code try your own interpretation of the stain.

If you are with amicihe or family members, do this exercise as a group.

POINT OF VIEW.

Look at the stain up close and from a distance.

Change the point of view!

SCAN THE QR

Scan the Qr code with your internet-connected phone or tablet and look at the drawing.
Slide the cursor over the image with your finger to view the drawing.

T

ENJOY THE DETAILS

After looking at the design as a whole you can pinch the image to enlarge it.
Take the time to enjoy all the details.
Look without judging.

CONFRONT

Compare the drawing with the stain again by moving the cursor up and down.
This can also be done with the enlarged image.

CONTINUE

When you feel satisfied proceed to the next spot.
If you do not have a paper map help yourself by opening the map link found in the relevant route on the website.

STORIES

Pay attention to the micro and macro stories around you.

LOOK UP

Occasionally look up, if there are beautiful clouds pause to look at them!

THE OBSTACLE.

Along the way you will encounter "an obstacle" -- a mistake.
Will you be able to face it and solve it?

REINVENE

Along the way you will encounter many other peeling walls, if you have time and desire have fun reinventing them.

FOCUS

Along the way try to stay focused on this activity and try not to talk about ...soccer, cars, video games, shopping, food (...).

THE PATH.

BELOW ARE THE VISIBLE IMAGES ALONG THE Details route in MILAN – THANKS TO THE SOUL!!!

By clicking on the image the work will be opened in full screen you can view the imperfection of the wall before and after the artistic intervention.

Click on the image to view full screen before and after.

Nameless Square - Wall at the side of the Parish Church of St. Mary Mother.
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Don Paul
Nameless Square - Wall at the side of the Parish Church of St. Mary Mother.

DON PAUL

Priest of the Parish Church of St. Mary Mother.
One of the most energetic, positive and revolutionary figures in the neighborhood.

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Nameless Square - Wall on the Side of the Parish Church of St. Mary Mother.
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Drunk
Nameless Square - Wall on the Side of the Parish Church of St. Mary Mother.

Drunk

The devil and holy water … next to the figure of Don Paolo we wanted with this drawing to depict one of the many problems in the neighborhood.
The abuse of alcohol, and drugs.

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Nameless Square - Box descent on Constantine Baroni Street.
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Rich
Nameless Square - Box descent on Constantine Baroni Street.

RICCIO

Gratosoglio used to be a very green neighborhood, and still in the morning hours one can see “unexpected wildlife” strolling through the streets of the neighborhood. In particular this hedgehog, he watches a white tower rise above him…from below the Box cars. Changing perspectives!!!!

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Nameless Square - Descending stairs on Constantine Baroni Street.
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Bear Rap
Nameless Square - Descending stairs on Constantine Baroni Street.

Bear Rap

A tribute to one of the neighborhood Rap Bands, who have shot video clips in this very square.

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Nameless Square - Near a tower on the ceiling of a terrace ledge.
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The Map
Nameless Square - Near a tower on the ceiling of a terrace ledge.

The Map

Neighborhood map.
We always like to find a spot to allocate as a map of the work area.

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Nameless Square - Near a tower.
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Boxer
Nameless Square - Near a tower.

Boxer

Tribute to Domino Boxing present with a gym in this square.
Activity that brings together several young people from the area.

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Nameless Square - Near a tower.
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Cops
Nameless Square - Near a tower.

COPS

Since there is drug dealing and crime of various kinds police and carabinieri are the order of the day here.

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Nameless Square - Near a tower.
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Crocco
Nameless Square - Near a tower.

Crocco Sleep

One of the other big problems in the neighborhood is the massive presence of homeless people who sleep everywhere and try to occupy any available nook and cranny.
In this image a Homeless Crocco, with the brand new housing unit designed by Aler (Azienda Lombarda per l’Edilizia Residenziale) – a sleeping bag that is practical and convenient to place anywhere!!!

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Nameless Square - Near a tower.
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Black Tear
Nameless Square - Near a tower.

Black Tear

Gratosoglio is a multicultural neighborhood.
So many are migrants from all parts of the “global south.”
A tribute to one of these communities.

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Nameless Square - Social Recreational Cultural Center For Seniors.
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Shot Dance
Nameless Square - Social Recreational Cultural Center For Seniors.

Shot Dance

In the glass walls of The Towers Association – Cultural Recreation Center For Seniors, we can see cracks, breaks, bullet holes (compressed air) from vandalism.
In particular, we were intrigued by these two adjoining windows with these two different holes…and in the middle a small marker writing“love.”
The vision of a somewhat retro affair between a dancer and her admirer was immediately clear to us.

We talked about it with the senior center manager, who complained about the numerous acts of vandalism and “artistic futility”…but at the same time he couldn’t help showing all his senior* friends the delightful (his words) drawings we had made.

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Nameless Square - Social Recreational Cultural Center For Seniors.
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Shot Man
Nameless Square - Social Recreational Cultural Center For Seniors.

Shot Man

The companion beside the ballet described above.

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Via M. Saponaro - Coming from the Socio Recreational Cultural Center For Seniors.
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Blade
Via M. Saponaro - Coming from the Socio Recreational Cultural Center For Seniors.

Blade

On the ground in Gratosoglio you find everything … including many human “oral secretions” … which are turned into “Blade spit” here.

We shared this stain with several people in the neighborhood and launched an online “Challenge”… and there were countless interpretations of this so interesting stain!!!

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Nameless Square - Near the White Tower, near Saponaro Lavasecco.
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Miró
Nameless Square - Near the White Tower, near Saponaro Lavasecco.

Miró

On a torn Aler poster we liked to imagine a tribute to the neighborhood that the painter Miró might have made.

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Nameless Square - Near the White Tower, near Saponaro Lavasecco.
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Mostrino
Nameless Square - Near the White Tower, near Saponaro Lavasecco.

Mostrino

Beautiful Drawing made by Ana Hordila of the Civil Service Municipality of Milan.
Instagram @qanaqq

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By the entrance gate to the Baroni/Saponaro Dogs area.
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Bansky
By the entrance gate to the Baroni/Saponaro Dogs area.

Bansky

Small spot in a gate of a dog area used mostly as a “pub” with cheap, high-alcohol beers.

Homage to a famous work by Bansky.

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Baroni Street, Grato bowl.
Wall bordering the Eurospin.
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Skate
Baroni Street, Grato bowl.
Wall bordering the Eurospin.

Skate Satyr

The Skate Ramp in Gratosoglio – the Grato Bowl – a beautiful work until a few years ago much used by young people in the area and beyond.
Now, after some wrong and very expensive renovations, the ramp no longer works, floods in bad weather and has become a real open-air dump.

This little satyr is still there waiting to be able to use this space.

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Via C. Baroni - At the school.
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Rain
Via C. Baroni - At the school.

Rain

A white tile wall full of signs.
A rain-laden cloud that can provide relief in some areas of the Global South.
Climate change is one of the new reasons for mass migration.

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C Street. Baroni - Under the balcony on the 1st floor of No. 43.
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Superhomless
C Street. Baroni - Under the balcony on the 1st floor of No. 43.

Super homless

There are so many homeless people in Gratosoglio that finding a place to sleep is an incredible adventure.
Any space can become a “sleeping place”-abandoned houses, landings, doorways, balconies, benches.
First come first served best lodging!
Superhero work!!!

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C Street. Baroni - Under the balcony on the 1st floor of No. 43.
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Pinuccia
C Street. Baroni - Under the balcony on the 1st floor of No. 43.

Pinuccia

Mrs. Pinuccia lives on the top floor of one of the White Towers.
She constantly monitors her landing, which is periodically squatted.
We met her one morning when with a hairbrush in one hand and a large parrot key in the other she “gently” opened the door to the towers’ terrace.
We liked to imagine her as a kind of white-haired Cyrano.

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C Street. Baroni - Near house entrance 41
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Whale
C Street. Baroni - Near house entrance 41

Whale

Abandoned the white towers here, the neighborhood turns out to be greener and the scenery changes.
The trees in the area are home to a lot of birds and budgerigars that, in hot weather, sing their hearts out between 2 and 4 pm.
Closing your eyes and listening gives you the feeling of being in a jungle.
Therefore, we enjoyed giving more space to nature.

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C Street. Baroni - Near house entrance 41
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Dog
C Street. Baroni - Near house entrance 41

Dog

The many dogs in Gratosoglio that can be found walking between green spaces and piles of garbage.

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C Street. Baroni - Near house entrance 39
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Grufalò
C Street. Baroni - Near house entrance 39

The Gruffalo

In this area of Gratosoglio, the White Towers are now almost a memory, or for some monsters they may even become a “game” to be carried under one’s arm.

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Via C. Baroni - From house number 39 going toward the main road.
On one of the two garbage houses.
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Mantis
Via C. Baroni - From house number 39 going toward the main road.
On one of the two garbage houses.

Mantis

Garbage heaps are yet another major problem in the neighborhood.
Giant, smelly piles in which anything can be found.
However, the area is filled with red brick cottages specially reserved for garbage collection.

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C Street. Baroni - Near house entrance 60
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Cat
C Street. Baroni - Near house entrance 60

Cat

What can I say… a cat is a cat: MIAO!!!!

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C Street. Baroni - Canopy of the entrance to house number 60.
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Penguin
C Street. Baroni - Canopy of the entrance to house number 60.

Penguin

Looking at the clouds is a constant and a fundamental training of the Details project.
Penguins do it too, you should remember it more often too!

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Via Gratosoglio, towards house number 67
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Child Secret
Via Gratosoglio, towards house number 67

Child Secret

Finally arriving on Gratosoglio Street, in this area we can find the origins of ancient Gratosoglio.

This area is dominated by the former Cederna Cotton Mill, a historic factory covering some 30,000 square meters on the banks of the Southern Lambro.
This entire building is currently abandoned.
What could be more exciting than an abandoned factory?
Who wouldn’t want to peek inside?

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Via Gratosoglio, towards house number 67
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Antonio Cereda
Via Gratosoglio, towards house number 67

Antonio Cerada

Portrait of Antonio Cederna, born in 1841, patriot and Garibaldian, the industrial progenitor of a Valtellina family, best known for two descendants, who in their own way have marked the last fifty years of Italian history: Camilla Cederna, historical journalist and writer, and Antonio Cederna, archaeologist, journalist and writer.

Antonio Cederna is the founder of Cederna Cotton Mill, built in 1886.

One can see from the painting his Garibaldian outlook and his being a man of fashion, atypical for those times.

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Via Gratosoglio, towards house number 67
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Fashion Pig
Via Gratosoglio, towards house number 67

Fashion Pig

The end of this Details residence right in front of a former Cotton Mill coincided with the beginning of Milan’s world-famous Fashion Week.
What better way to pay homage to it?
To remember what is the real Milan made of famous and unmissable social events…while in Gratosoglio…life goes on despite everything!

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WE GIVE THE NUMBERS ON THE ROUTE!

The following are some data characterizing the route taken in Milan Gratosolio.

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